BIG, HOT, CHEAP AND RIGHT

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This book is a genuine delight, witty, sometimes downright funny, learned and informative — a startling eye-opener about what’s really going on in The Lone Star State.  Whatever you think you know about Texas is probably wrong, due to the exaggerations of Texans themselves, the animus of pundits elsewhere, and a veritable tsunami of misinformation about the state currently inundating the culture.  Erica Grieder will set you right, though, in this very entertaining and illuminating book.  Grieder thinks for herself and has a passionate respect for facts, which makes her an oddball among modern journalists and a most refreshing one.

You can buy it here.

SEDONA

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Our second stop in Arizona, and the place we’d set out to investigate, was Sedona.  It’s about 30 miles southeast of Flagstaff and is situated at the end of the spectacular Oak Creek Canyon, seen above.

The forested canyon gives way to an equally spectacular landscape of sculpted red rock formations, in the midst of which Sedona is located.  The area was a frequent location for Hollywood films, mostly Westerns, from the 1920s to the 1970s, which is partly why I was there, to do research for a book of short stories about the experiences of people involved in movie productions around Sedona.

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My sister Libba was there to take video footage for a documentary she’s making about a sculptor from Flagstaff who as a kid worked as an extra on movies shot in Sedona.  Behind Libba in the photograph above are the Cathedral Rocks just outside of Sedona.  John Wayne rode a horse over Oak Creek near this spot, with the Cathedral Rocks in the background, in the movie Angel and the Badman, from 1947.

The town of Sedona is now a little boutique-y and twee, but it’s a pleasant place to stay for a couple of days.  The landscape around it redeems its touristy vibe.

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We ate dinner our first night there at the Cowboy Club, dining on buffalo meatloaf wrapped in bacon.  It was served with buttery mashed potatoes, fresh asparagus and grilled mushrooms and was superb.

Click on the images to enlarge.

[Correction — just watched Angel and the Badman . . . Wayne rode his horse over Oak Creek in some other movie.]

KINGMAN

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My sister and I spent our first night on the road in Kingman, Arizona, a small but interesting town in the Western part of the state.  Andy Devine grew up there and it was a waypoint on Route 66, mentioned in the song about that lost highway.  The part of 66 that runs through Kingman has been renamed Andy Devine Avenue.

We stayed at the Quality Inn, apparently a place favored by rodeo participants, whose stays are memorialized on the doors to the motel rooms they once occupied.  I stayed in 164, above, though sadly Shayne was long gone.

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My sister stayed in Cody Custer’s old room — he was nowhere to be found, either.

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We ate at the joint above — the shrimp tacos were excellent, and they had Pacifico on tap.

Click on the images to enlarge.

OFF TO ARIZONA

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. . . with my sister Libba.  Our mission — top secret.  All I can say is that it involves capturing and training large rattlesnakes for entertainment purposes.  Reports to follow when I return.

Click on the image to enlarge.